I live about 30 min from the beach, but hardly ever get to go surfing these days. It pains me to look at the surf report on days when the swell is going off. Although, here in LA epic waves are hard to come by. But there are those days. Those small windows of time where everything sets up right and you leave the ocean feeling like you rule the world. I surf mainly at Sunset, where Sunset Blvd and the PCH meet. That spot is perfect example of a place that is only good about 3 days of the year, but when it's on, it's on!
